Submitted:
01 November 2023
Posted:
09 November 2023
You are already at the latest version
Abstract
Keywords:
1. Introduction
2. Natural active ingredients
3. Skin structure

3.1. Keratinocytes
3.2. Fibroblasts
3.2.1. Collagen
3.2.2. Elastin
3.2.3. Hyaluronic Acid
4. Encapsulation methods
5.1. Polymer-based nanoparticles

5.2. Nanoprecipitation method
5.3. Simple emulsion evaporation method

5.4. Double emulsion evaporation method

5.5. Ionic gelation

5.6. Supercritical fluid method

6. Electrospinning for encapsulated active ingredients
6.1. Electrospinning methods
6.1.1. Single Fluid Electrospinning
- Blend Electrospinning
- Emulsion Electrospinning
6.1.2. Multi-Fluid Electrospinning
- Multi-Jet Electrospinning
- Side-by-Side Electrospinning
6.1.3. Coaxial/Multiaxial Electrospinning
7. Applications of electrospun nanofiber-encapsulated ingredients in the cosmetic industry
8. Conclusions, Challenges, and Future Perspectives
Abbreviations
| APIs: | Active pharmaceutical ingredients |
| BCC: | Basal Cell Carcinoma |
| BSTI | Baumann Skin Type Index |
| BSTS | Baumann Skin Type System |
| CIR: | Cosmetic Ingredient Review |
| CMCS: | carboxymethyl chitosan |
| CO2: | Carbon dioxide |
| DRNT | Dry, Resistant, Non-Pigmented, Tight skin |
| DRNW: | Dry-Resistant Non-Pigmented Wrinkled |
| DRPT | Dry, Resistant, Pigmented, Tight skin |
| DRPW: | Dry-Resistant Pigmented Wrinkled |
| DSNT | Dry, Sensitive, Non-Pigmented, Tight skin |
| DSNW | Dry, Sensitive, Non-Pigmented, Wrinkle-Prone skin |
| DSPT | Dry, Sensitive, Pigmented, Wrinkle-Prone/Tight skin |
| DSPW | Dry, Sensitive, Pigmented, Wrinkle-Prone skin |
| EC: | ethyl cellulose |
| FDA: | US Food and Drug Administration |
| HA: | Hyaluronic acid |
| INCI: | International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients |
| nm: | Nanometre |
| NMF: | natural moisturising factor |
| NPA: | Natural Products Association |
| O/W/O: | Oil-in-water-in-oil |
| O/W: | Oil-in-water |
| ORNW: | Oily, Resistant, Non-Pigmented, Wrinkle-Prone skin |
| ORPT: | Oily, Resistant, Pigmented, Tight skin |
| ORPW: | Oily, Resistant, Pigmented, Wrinkle-Prone skin |
| OSNT: | Oily, Sensitive, Non-Pigmented, Tight skin |
| OSNW: | Oily, Sensitive, Non-Pigmented, Wrinkle-Prone skin |
| OSPT: | Oily, Sensitive, Pigmented, Tight skin |
| OSPW: | Oily, Sensitive, Pigmented, Wrinkle-Prone skin |
| OTC: | Over-the-counter |
| PAR-2: | Protease-activated receptor-2 |
| PCL: | polycaprolactone |
| PEG: | Polyethylene Glycol |
| pH: | potential of hydrogen |
| PLA: | Poly (lactic acid) |
| PLA: | Polylactic acid |
| PVA: | Polyvinyl alcohol |
| PVP: | Polyvinylpyrrolidone |
| SA: | Sodium alginate |
| SC: | Stratum Corneum |
| SCC: | Squamous Cell Carcinoma |
| SLES: | Sodium lauryl ether sulphate |
| SLS: | Sodium lauryl sulphate |
| SPF: | Sun Protection Factor |
| TEWL: | Trans-epidermal Water Loss |
| UV: | Ultraviolet |
| UVA: | Ultraviolet A |
| UVB: | Ultraviolet B |
| VOC: | Volatile Organic CompoundFormun Üstü |
| W/O/W: | Water-in-oil-in-water |
| W/O: | Water-in-oil |
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| Skin Type | Active Ingredient | Benefits | References |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dry skin | Aloe vera | Moisturises and soothes dry skin and helps restore the natural skin moisture barrier. | [30] |
| Chamomile | It has anti-inflammatory properties and soothes dry, irritated skin. | [31] | |
| Calendula | Helps to hydrate and heal dry, damaged skin. | [32] | |
| Lavender | Has calming properties and soothes dry, itchy skin. | [33] | |
| Coconut oil | Has moisturising properties and helps to soothe and hydrate dry skin. | [34] | |
| Jojoba oil | Helps to moisturise dry skin without leaving a greasy residue | [35] | |
| Shea butter | Has deeply moisturising properties, helps to soothe and nourish dry skin | [36] | |
| Olive oil | Contains antioxidants and moisturising properties, helps to hydrate and protect dry skin | [37] | |
| Rosehip oil | Contains essential fatty acids and vitamin A, helps to hydrate and rejuvenate dry skin | [38] | |
| Witch hazel | Has astringent properties, helps to tighten and tone dry, ageing skin | [39] | |
| Normal skin | Niacinamide | Helps improve skin texture and tone, reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and strengthens the skin barrier | [40] |
| Vitamin C | Helps brighten and even out skin tone, promotes collagen synthesis, and protects against environmental damage | [41] | |
| Hyaluronic acid | Provides deep hydration and helps retain moisture in the skin, improving skin elasticity and firmness. | [42] | |
| Green tea extract | Has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, helps protect against UV damage, and promotes healthy skin ageing | [43] | |
| Retinoids | Helps stimulate collagen production, improves skin texture and tone, and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles | [44] | |
| Oily skin | Salicylic acid | Helps unclog pores, reduces oiliness, and prevents breakouts | [45] |
| Tea tree oil | Has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, helps reduce acne and oiliness | [46] | |
| Zinc | Helps regulate sebum production, has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, and promotes wound healing. | [47] | |
| Witch hazel | Has astringent properties that can help tighten and tone oily skin, reduces inflammation and irritation | [39] | |
| Combination | Niacinamide | Helps regulate sebum production, improves skin texture and tone, and strengthens the skin barrier. | [40] |
| Hyaluronic acid | Provides deep hydration to dry areas while being lightweight enough not to exacerbate oiliness in the T-zone | [42] | |
| Vitamin C | Helps brighten and even out skin tone, promotes collagen synthesis, and protects against environmental damage | [41] | |
| Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) | Help exfoliate dead skin cells, improve skin texture and tone, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. | [40] | |
| Jojoba oil | A similar structure to the natural skin sebum helps regulate oil production and hydrates dry areas. | [35] |
| Electrospun polymers | Ingredients | Benefits for skin | Personal Care Category | References |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Silk fibroin | Lanolin | Occlusive, emollient | Lipophilic | [150,151,152] |
| Chitosan, PVA | Glycerine | Anti-inflammatory, barrier recovery | Humectant, moisturiser | [153,154,155] |
| Chitosan, Gelatin, and PVA | Hyaluronic Acid | Humectant, anti-aging | Humectant, moisturiser | [42,156] |
| Silk fibroin | Vitamin B5 (Pantothenic Acid/Dexpanthenol) | Hydration, barrier protection, reduction of trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), fibroblast stimulation, and re-epithelialisation. | Humectant, emollient, antiinflammatory | [157,158,159,160] |
| PVA, Gelatin | Urea | Anti-inflammatory, hydrating, keratolytic | Humectant, emollient | [161,162] |
| Chitosan,Gelatin, and PVA | Aloesin | Tyrosinase inhibition, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory | Depigmenting, sun protective (UVB) | [163,164] |
| PVA | Hydroquinone | Tyrosinase inhibition | Depigmenting, brightening, lightening | [165,166] |
| Chitosan | Emblica Extract | Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antipyretic, antitumor, chemo-preventive, hepatoprotective, analgesic, antibacterial | Depigmenting, anti-ageing, sunscreen | [167,168,169,170] |
| PVA, PCL, Chitosan | Mulberry Extract | Antityrosinase, antihyperglycemic, antitumorigenic, anti-inflammatory, antipyretic, antioxidant, anti-atherogenic, antimicrobial chemo-preventive, neuro-protective | Depigmenting | [171,172,173] |
| PVA | Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) | Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, photo-protectant, depigmenting | Depigmenting | [174,175,176] |
| PVA | Niacinamide | PAR-2 inhibition, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-ageing, photoprotective | Depigmenting, exfoliant | [171,177,178] |
| PVA, Chitosan | Green Tea | Antioxidant, anti-ageing, antiacne, antiangiogenic, anticarcinogenic, anticarcinogenic, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, chemo-preventive, immunomodulatory,2photoprotective | Anti-ageing, moisturising, antiacne, anogenital wart treatment | [43,179,180] |
| PVA.Chitosan | Rosa Damascena | Antioxidant, antibacterial, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, and anxiolytic | Antioxidant | [181,182] |
| PVA, PLGA | Pycnogenol | Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anticarcinogenic, photoprotective, antimicrobial | Anti-inflammatory, hydrating | [183,184,185] |
| PVA, PLGA | Resveratrol | Antioxidant, antibacterial, anticancer, antiinflammatory, antitumorigenic, anti-tyrosinase, cardioprotective | Anti-ageing, anticancer | [186] |
| PVA, PLGA.Chitosan | Flaxseed Oil | Antioxidant, anti-ageing, anti-inflammatory, and antiapoptotic | Antioxidant, anti-ageing | [187,188,189] |
| PVA, PLGA | Caffeic Acid | Antioxidant, anticarcinogenic, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, immunostimulatory, neuroprotective, photoprotective | Antioxidant, anti-ageing | [190,191,192,193] |
| PLGA.PEO | Ferulic Acid | Antioxidant, anticancer, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, cardioprotective, neuroprotective, hepatoprotective, photoprotective, skin lightening | Antioxidant, anti-ageing, photoprotection | [192,194,195] |
| Cellulose acetate | Tocopherol (Vitamin E) | Antioxidant, photoprotection, wound healing | Antioxidant, moisturising, anti-ageing | [196,197,198] |
| Chitosan, PVA | Ginger | Antioxidant, anticarcinogenic, anti-inflammatory, antinausea, wound healing | Antioxidant, analgesic, photo-protectant | [199,200,201] |
| Hyaluronic acid, PEO | Honey/Propolis/Royal Jelly | Analgesic, antioxidant, antiinflammatory, antimicrobial, antitumor, antiseptic, antipyretic, antiulcer, hepatoprotective, immunomodulatory |
Antioxidant, anti-ageing, photoprotection, antiseptic, wound healing | [202,203,204,205] |
| Chitosan, Polycaprolactone,PVA | Melatonin | Antioxidant, anticarcinogenic, anti-ageing, anti-inflammatory, anxiolytic, immunomodulatory | Antioxidant, anti-ageing | [206,207,208] |
| Pullulan | Aloe Vera | Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antimicrobial, immunomodulatory, laxative, wound healing | Moisturising, soothing, cooling, burning and wound healing | [30,209,210] |
| Polyurethane, Gelatin | Lavandula | Anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antiseptic, anti-colic, antispasmodic, antidepressant, sedative | Soothing, sedating, anti-inflammatory, analgesic | [211,212,213,214] |
| PLA | Salicylic Acid | Anti-inflammatory, pore cleansing | Cleansing, antiacne, pore minimising, exfoliating | [215,216] |
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