Preprint Article Version 1 Preserved in Portico This version is not peer-reviewed

Wood Extracts for Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics—Special View on Mordanting Procedures

Version 1 : Received: 4 January 2024 / Approved: 4 January 2024 / Online: 4 January 2024 (15:41:14 CET)

A peer-reviewed article of this Preprint also exists.

Mai, T.H.; Grethe, T.; Mahltig, B. Wood Extracts for Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics—Special View on Mordanting Procedures. Textiles 2024, 4, 138-164. Mai, T.H.; Grethe, T.; Mahltig, B. Wood Extracts for Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics—Special View on Mordanting Procedures. Textiles 2024, 4, 138-164.

Abstract

Natural dyes offer a bio-based opportunity to support attractive coloration to textile fabrics made from natural fibers like cotton, wool, hemp and many other materials. They can be part of a strategy to realize fully bio-based textile materials and clothing. Following this statement, the actual study investigates the use of wood extracts for dyeing of cotton fabrics. Actually extract powders of Logwood (Haematoxylon campechianum L.), Brazilwood (Caesalpinia spp.), and Quebracho wood (Schinopsis lorentzii) are used. The dyeing process is modified using different mordants based on iron and aluminum salts. These mordants are applied in pre-, meta- or post-mordant procedures. Color and fastness properties of prepared textile samples are determined by spectroscopic measurements, color measurements, washing procedures and Xenotest for measuring the light fastness. Finally, a broad range of different colorations can be realized by different combinations of wood extracts and mordanting procedures. A good wash fastness is reached for some color shades. For reaching good wash fastness, pre- and meta-mordanting procedures are more advantageous compared to post-mordanting. However, the light fastness of realized samples is only moderate to low. In conclusion, it can be stated that dyes from wood extracts are excellent materials to dye natural fibers if they are combined with the right mordanting agent in pre- or meta-mordanting procedures. The actual study is therefore a good proof-of-concept for the realization of fully bio-based colored textile materials.

Keywords

dyeing; coloration; cotton; natural dye; wood extract; mordanting; optical spectroscopy; color measurement; fastness properties

Subject

Chemistry and Materials Science, Paper, Wood and Textiles

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