Preprint Article Version 1 Preserved in Portico This version is not peer-reviewed

Multifunctional Biotechnological Lip Moisturizer for Lip Repair and Hydration: Development, in vivo Efficacy Assessment and Sensory Analysis

Débora Dahmer
,
Sara Scandorieiro
* ORCID logo ,
Briani Gisele Bigotto
,
Thays Amélio Bergamini
,
Jennifer Germiani Cardozo
,
Isabela Mazarim Da Costa
,
Renata Katsuko Takayama Kobayashi
ORCID logo ,
Gerson Nakazato
,
Dionísio Borsato
,
Sandra Helena Prudencio
,
Marina Leite Mitterer Daltoé
ORCID logo ,
Maria Antonia Pedrine Colabone Celligoi
ORCID logo ,
Audrey Alesandra Stinghen Garcia Lonni
*
Version 1 : Received: 11 October 2023 / Approved: 12 October 2023 / Online: 16 October 2023 (08:17:55 CEST)

A peer-reviewed article of this Preprint also exists.

Dahmer, D.; Scandorieiro, S.; Bigotto, B.G.; Bergamini, T.A.; Germiniani-Cardozo, J.; da Costa, I.M.; Kobayashi, R.K.T.; Nakazato, G.; Borsato, D.; Prudencio, S.H.; Daltoé, M.L.M.; Celligoi, M.A.P.C.; Lonni, A.A.S.G. Multifunctional Biotechnological Lip Moisturizer for Lip Repair and Hydration: Development, In Vivo Efficacy Assessment and Sensory Analysis. Cosmetics 2023, 10, 166. Dahmer, D.; Scandorieiro, S.; Bigotto, B.G.; Bergamini, T.A.; Germiniani-Cardozo, J.; da Costa, I.M.; Kobayashi, R.K.T.; Nakazato, G.; Borsato, D.; Prudencio, S.H.; Daltoé, M.L.M.; Celligoi, M.A.P.C.; Lonni, A.A.S.G. Multifunctional Biotechnological Lip Moisturizer for Lip Repair and Hydration: Development, In Vivo Efficacy Assessment and Sensory Analysis. Cosmetics 2023, 10, 166.

Abstract

The demand for sustainable cosmetics leads to the search for natural and biotechnology ingredients. The present study reports the development of multifunctional lip moisturizer containing levan (LEV) from Bacillus subtilis natto, sophorolipids (SOP) from Starmerella bombicola and Citrus paradisi (OCP) essential oil , using simplex-centroid experimental design. The formulations were evaluated physicochemically, pharmacotechnically and by DPPH assay. The optimized formulation was selected through Response Surface Method and the evaluation of its efficiency in lip hydration was carried out using bioimpedance method and sensory analysis. The formulations showed pH compatible with the lip region and remained stable after centrifuge test and thermal stress in preliminary stability. Spreadability varied between 415.3 and 1217.1 mm2, moisture retention was above 95%, and antioxidant capacity was around 50% for all formulations. The optimized formulation, containing 0.4% LEV and 0.8% SOF, helped to maintain the lip hydration already shown by the participants; 85% of them reported improvement in this aspect. The incorporation of these actives is innovative and helps in the development of future works, through the use of a new non-invasive and low-cost technique, not previously described in other studies, in association with relevant sensory analyzes in the field of cosmetology.

Keywords

lip moisturizer; levana; sophorolipid; Citrus paradisi essential oil; bioimpedance; sensory attributes; acceptance; buy intention; cosmetics

Subject

Medicine and Pharmacology, Pharmacy

Copyright: This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution License which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.

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