preprints.org > biology and life sciences > plant sciences > doi: 10.20944/preprints202310.0438.v1

Preprint Review Version 1 Preserved in Portico This version is not peer-reviewed

Version 1 : Received: 7 October 2023 / Approved: 8 October 2023 / Online: 8 October 2023 (11:57:33 CEST)

This paper aims to establish a current relationship between pharmaceutical sciences and the development of perfumes and fragrances, which bring significant economic benefits and whose added value is among other professionals, the one made by professionals in Pharmacy. For this purpose, historical data are used as a starting point and galenic, chemical and botanical aspects are discussed in a transversal way. In this sense, it must be taken into account that in the case of Spanish pharmacy, it is closely linked to the knowledge and use of plants. Sources such as Web of Science (WOS) and databases such as Scopus, monographs and various web pages (where scientific-technical documents appear) have been used. The results and discussion are based on the selection of the 50 plant species most commonly used in high quality fragrances. Therefore, this publication should be considered as an approach to this subject based on an analysis of a representative sample of data. Some characteristics of perfumes (classification according to the concentration of essential oils and combination of plant extracts) are presented beforehand. They also briefly compile the traditional and modern ways in the treatment of these extracts. The main focus of this work is the botanical and chemical analysis of these described plants, pointing out their common name, correct botanical name, geographical place of origin, used part of the plant and main molecules. The 50 botanical species belong to 27 families of angiosperms and are represented in a large part of the phylogenetic tree of botanical systematics. The most significant families are aromatic: Rutaceae (16.7%), Lamiaceae (16.7%) and Apiaceae (6.5%). The most represented genus is Citrus (with seven species or hybrids). However, it should be noted that natural extracts of good quality natural fragrances may be supplemented with chemically synthesized molecules. Of the 50 botanical species selected, 84% of the extracts have their origin in Tropical Asia, the Middle East and the Mediterranean region. This figure generally coincides with the percentage of medicinal plants (or their extracts) admitted by the European Pharmacopoeia. All parts of a plant (depending on which one it is) can be a source of molecules for the elaboration of these products. The most commonly used parts to obtain extracts are flowers (34%) and leaves (30%), a biological circumstance that is explained in this work. On the opposite side are the resins (10%), rhizomes and roots (8%). In this work, 110 molecules have been found that are part of the essences of perfumes and fragrances, the most frequent are: linalool, limonene, 1,8-cineole, eugenol and derivatives, geraniol, vanillin and derivatives, β-cariophyllene, p-cmene and farnesene and derivatives (3.64%). However, in order to elaborate a quality perfume, many other molecules must be taken into account, according to the creative experience of the perfumer, which is subject to confidentiality and chemical analysis according to current legislation, which would avoid fraud, allergy and dermatitis problems.

cosmeceuticals; cosmetics; fragrances; history of pharmacy; pharmaceutical botany

Biology and Life Sciences, Plant Sciences

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