Submitted:
05 February 2025
Posted:
06 February 2025
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Abstract
Keywords:
Introduction
Materials and Methods
- Cotton Fiber (CO): High-quality combed cotton fibers with an average staple length of 30 mm and a micronaire value of 4.2 were used.
- Polyester Fiber (PES): Dacron® polyester staple fibers with an average fiber length of 38 mm and a denier of 1.4 dtex were used.
- Lycra® (Elastane): A 78 dtex Lycra® filament was used as the core component in core-spun and dual-core-spun yarns.
- Polybutylene Terephthalate (PBT): A 50 dtex PBT filament was incorporated alongside Lycra® in dual-core-spun yarns.
- Yarn Production
-
The fibers were blended in varying ratios during the spinning process:
- o 100% Cotton (CO)
- o 75% Cotton / 25% Polyester (CO/PES)
- o 50% Cotton / 50% Polyester (CO/PES)
- o 25% Cotton / 75% Polyester (CO/PES)
- o 100% Polyester (PES)
- A ring spinning system was used to produce rigid, core-spun, and dual-core-spun yarns with a linear density of 328.06 dtex (Ne 18/1).
Methodology
- Standard Used: EN ISO 2062 (Determination of breaking force and elongation of yarns)
- Objective: To determine the tensile strength and elongation properties of different yarn types and blend ratios.
- Equipment: Universal Tensile Tester (Instron® 4411) with a 10 N load cell
-
Method:
- o Five yarn samples from each composition and yarn type (Rigid, Core-Spun, Dual-Core-Spun) were tested.
- o The gauge length was set to 500 mm, and the test was conducted at a constant extension rate of 200 mm/min.
- o Breaking force (cN/tex) and elongation percentage (%) were recorded at break.
- o All tests were performed under standard atmospheric conditions (65% ± 2% relative humidity, 20°C ± 2°C temperature) in accordance with ASTM D1776.
-
Interpretation:
- o Higher strength values indicate increased durability.
- o Increased polyester content resulted in higher strength and elongation due to polyester’s inherent high tenacity and flexibility.
- Standard Used: TS 2394 (Uster Evenness Testing)
- Objective: To assess the uniformity of yarn linear density.
- Equipment: Uster® Evenness Tester 5
-
Method:
- o The test was conducted on 1 km of yarn per sample, with five replications for each yarn type.
- o The yarn was passed through capacitive sensors at a speed of 400 m/min to measure mass variations.
- o The Unevenness Percentage (U%) and Coefficient of Variation of Mass (CVm%) were recorded.
- o All tests were performed under standard laboratory conditions (20°C ± 2°C, 65% ± 2% RH).
-
Interpretation:
- o Lower U% and CVm% values indicate higher uniformity.
- o Polyester-rich yarns exhibited lower U% values, confirming better fiber distribution and spinning stability.
- Standard Used: TS 12863 (Uster Hairiness Testing)
- Objective: To quantify the number of protruding fibers on the yarn surface.
- Equipment: Uster Hairiness Tester 5
-
Method:
- o Five 200-meter yarn samples from each blend ratio were tested.
- o The yarn was passed through an optical sensor that measured fiber protrusions longer than 1 mm from the yarn core.
- o The hairiness index (H) was recorded, representing the average number of protruding fibers per unit length.
-
Interpretation:
- o A lower H value corresponds to smoother yarn.
- o Cotton-rich yarns exhibited higher hairiness due to short-staple fiber projections, while polyester blends showed reduced hairiness due to their smoother surface properties.
- Standard Used: EN ISO 2060 (Determination of yarn imperfections)
- Objective: To quantify yarn irregularities, including thin places (-50%), thick places (+50%), and neps (+200%) per kilometer of yarn.
- Equipment: Uster Evenness Tester 5
-
Method:
- o 1 km of yarn per sample was tested, with five replications for each yarn type.
- o The test was conducted at a speed of 400 m/min using a capacitive sensor that detects changes in yarn mass.
- o The instrument identified and counted thin places, thick places, and neps per km of yarn, recorded as the IPI value.
-
Interpretation:
- o A lower IPI indicates a higher quality yarn.
- o Increasing polyester content led to fewer imperfections due to polyester’s superior fiber fineness and uniformity.
- Formula Used:
- Objective: To evaluate the overall yarn quality by integrating multiple yarn characteristics.
-
Method:
- o The breaking strength, elongation, unevenness (U%), hairiness (H), and imperfections (IPI) values from all tests were used in the formula.
- o Higher YQI values indicate better-quality yarns.
- o The results showed that polyester-rich yarns had the highest YQI values, confirming improved mechanical properties and uniformity.
-
Two-Way ANOVA
-
o A two-way analysis of variance (ANOVA) was conducted to analyze the effects of:
- ▪ Yarn type (Rigid, Core-Spun, Dual-Core-Spun)
- ▪ Blend ratio (CO/PES composition)
- o The interaction effects between yarn type and composition on strength, elongation, unevenness, hairiness, and imperfections were examined.
-
-
Pearson Correlation Analysis
-
o Correlation coefficients were calculated to assess relationships between:
- ▪ Polyester content and strength/elongation (expected positive correlation).
- ▪ Polyester content and unevenness/imperfections (expected negative correlation).
- ▪ Yarn type and hairiness (expected moderate positive correlation).
-
- Summary of Methodology
| Test | Standard | Equipment | Key Parameters |
| Strength & Elongation | EN ISO 2062 | Universal Tensile Tester | 500 mm gauge, 200 mm/min extension rate |
| Unevenness (U% & CVm%) | TS 2394 | Uster Evenness Tester 5 | 1 km yarn, 400 m/min testing speed |
| Hairiness (H) | TS 12863 | Uster Hairiness Tester 5 | 200 m yarn per sample, fiber protrusion >1 mm |
| Imperfections (IPI) | EN ISO 2060 | Uster Evenness Tester 5 | Thin, thick places, neps per km |
| YQI Calculation | Custom Formula | Data from all tests | Strength, elongation, unevenness, hairiness, imperfections |
- This detailed methodology ensures precision in analyzing yarn strength, elongation, uniformity, hairiness, imperfections, and quality index (YQI) across different blend compositions and yarn structures.
Results and Discussion
- Positive correlation between polyester content and yarn strength/elongation (p < 0.001).
- Negative correlation between polyester ratio and imperfections/unevenness, demonstrating quality enhancement with polyester blending.
- Hairiness is moderately influenced by yarn type, with dual-core-spun yarns showing slightly higher values due to fiber migration.
| Blend Ratio (CO/PES) | Yarn Type | Strength (cN/tex) | Elongation (%) | Unevenness (U%) | Hairiness (H) | Imperfections (IPI) | YQI |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 100% CO | Rigid | 10.2 | 4.4 | 13.2 | 6.9 | 380 | 2.5 |
| 75/25 CO/PES | Rigid | 13.3 | 5.7 | 11.3 | 6.2 | 250 | 4.8 |
| 50/50 CO/PES | Rigid | 16.5 | 7.5 | 9.7 | 5.5 | 140 | 7.2 |
| 25/75 CO/PES | Rigid | 18.1 | 8.8 | 8.5 | 5.8 | 80 | 9.5 |
| 100% PES | Rigid | 20.2 | 10.5 | 7.4 | 6.3 | 45 | 11.2 |
| 100% CO | Core-Spun | 9.7 | 5.7 | 12.5 | 7.3 | 360 | 3.1 |
| 75/25 CO/PES | Core-Spun | 12.5 | 7.2 | 10.7 | 6.6 | 220 | 5.6 |
| 50/50 CO/PES | Core-Spun | 14.6 | 8.4 | 9.3 | 5.8 | 120 | 8.0 |
| 25/75 CO/PES | Core-Spun | 17.1 | 9.6 | 7.8 | 6.4 | 65 | 10.1 |
| 100% PES | Core-Spun | 18.7 | 11.5 | 6.9 | 6.8 | 38 | 12.0 |
| 100% CO | Dual Core-Spun | 9.3 | 6.4 | 11.8 | 7.6 | 340 | 3.7 |
| 75/25 CO/PES | Dual Core-Spun | 11.6 | 8.6 | 10.5 | 6.8 | 200 | 6.3 |
| 50/50 CO/PES | Dual Core-Spun | 13.7 | 9.8 | 8.9 | 6.4 | 110 | 8.8 |
| 25/75 CO/PES | Dual Core-Spun | 16 | 11.4 | 7.6 | 6.9 | 60 | 10.9 |
| 100% PES | Dual Core-Spun | 17.5 | 13.3 | 6.4 | 7.3 | 35 | 13.4 |
Conclusion
Limitations
- Moisture Management Issues: Polyester-rich yarns have reduced moisture absorption compared to 100% cotton, which can affect comfort in high-humidity environments.
- Increased Hairiness in Core-Spun Yarns: While polyester improves many properties, fiber migration in core-spun and dual-core-spun yarns can lead to increased hairiness, affecting fabric smoothness.
- Processing Complexity: The production of core and dual-core yarns requires specialized machinery and precise control over filament positioning, which can increase manufacturing costs.
- Reduced Biodegradability: Polyester is synthetic and non-biodegradable, which can raise environmental concerns regarding sustainability and waste management.
Acknowledgement
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