Preprint Article Version 1 Preserved in Portico This version is not peer-reviewed

Kamchatka Berry (Lonicera caerulea L.) Pomace Bioferment as an Innovative Cosmetic Raw Material

Weronika Majchrzak
* ORCID logo ,
Krzysztof Śmigielski
,
Ilona Motyl
,
Joanna Oracz
ORCID logo ,
Karina Skura
,
Sara Motyl
Version 1 : Received: 11 March 2024 / Approved: 14 March 2024 / Online: 14 March 2024 (05:26:29 CET)

A peer-reviewed article of this Preprint also exists.

Majchrzak, W.; Śmigielski, K.; Motyl, I.; Oracz, J.; Skura, K.; Motyl, S. Kamchatka Berry (Lonicera caerulea L.) Pomace Bioferment as an Innovative Cosmetic Raw Material. Appl. Sci. 2024, 14, 3218. Majchrzak, W.; Śmigielski, K.; Motyl, I.; Oracz, J.; Skura, K.; Motyl, S. Kamchatka Berry (Lonicera caerulea L.) Pomace Bioferment as an Innovative Cosmetic Raw Material. Appl. Sci. 2024, 14, 3218.

Abstract

Kamchatka berries (Lonicera caerulea L.) are known for their high content of phenolic compounds or vitamins, which is reflected in their antibacterial, detoxifying and anti-inflammatory properties. They are used in the production of jams, juices, wines and as natural dye. A bioferment was prepared from the pomace of the Kamchatka berry varieties Aurora and Indigo Gem and the strains Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Lacticaseibacillus paracasei, which was used to prepare a cosmetic preparation with a concentration of 5% in accordance with the guidelines of the COSMOS certification body. Conducted physico-chemical and organoleptic analyses and bioactive profile characterisation (UHPLC-DAD and UHPLC-ESI-MS/MS). The results showed that the presence of caffeic acid 4.47 ± 0.07 mg/100g was detected after fermentation of Kamchatka berry pomace. Vitamin C content increased by 141% after fermentation of Kamchatka berry pomace. The results of stability tests showed that in the process of physicochemical analysis of cosmetic preparation with bioferment of Kamchatka berry pomace the pH should oscillate in the range of 4.38-4.76 ± 0.01. Stability tests showed that the cosmetic should be protected from high temperatures and UV radiation and proved that the product is stable under changing conditions, resulting in lower transport and storage costs.

Keywords

cosmetic active ingredients; cosmetics; fermentation

Subject

Biology and Life Sciences, Food Science and Technology

Copyright: This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution License which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.

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