Preprint Article Version 1 Preserved in Portico This version is not peer-reviewed

In and Out Beauty and Sensitive Skin, a Psychophysiological Exploration: Myth or Reality?

Version 1 : Received: 17 December 2023 / Approved: 18 December 2023 / Online: 18 December 2023 (12:25:59 CET)

A peer-reviewed article of this Preprint also exists.

Falcao, L.; Nachat-Kappes, R.; Filaire, E. In and out Beauty and Sensitive Skin, a Psychophysiological Exploration: Myth or Reality? Cosmetics 2024, 11, 36. Falcao, L.; Nachat-Kappes, R.; Filaire, E. In and out Beauty and Sensitive Skin, a Psychophysiological Exploration: Myth or Reality? Cosmetics 2024, 11, 36.

Abstract

Knowing that biomolecules, such as β-amyrin and α-amyrin, have some pharmacological effects, the aim of this study was directed towards exploring the protective effect of a Tomato Peel and Seed Extract (TPSE) for its soothing function but also for its capacity to modulate the adrenal axis, involved in stress response. Ex vivo tests were carried out on skin explants to evaluate the effectiveness of TPSE formulated at 0.5% on Calcitonin Gene-Related Peptide (CGRP) and IL-10 release, Kappa Opioid Receptor (KOR) and Caspase 14 expression. An in vivo study combined a clinical evaluation of skin homogeneity, psychological parameter as well as analysis of salivary cortisol and dehydroepiandrosterone concentrations. All measurements were carried out at the beginning and after 28 days of applying a TPSE face cream. TPSE regulated not only the release of CGRP and Il-10, reflecting an anti-neurogenic and anti-inflammatory properties, but also modulated KORs. Twenty height days of TPSE application induced a significant decrease in intensity and extent erythrosis, a lower output of salivary cortisol and a significant increase in pleasant emotions when compared to placebo. These results provide encouragement to continue exploring the impact of cosmetic ingredient on psychophysiological parameters to improve skin health and well-being.

Keywords

sensitive skin; cortisol; dehydroepiandrosterone; saliva; emotion

Subject

Biology and Life Sciences, Other

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