Submitted:
08 February 2023
Posted:
09 February 2023
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Abstract
Keywords:
1. Introduction
2. Review

3. Equipment selection and digital measurements methodology

3. Video recording and parameters obtained from computer video analysis

- automatic calculation of running time − detection of the start and end video frame,
- automatic location of two reference markers (orange colour),
- the trajectory of the centre of mass (gravity) BMC (drawn on the picture) with the marker located on the climbing harness,
- analysis of positions BMC x(t) (Figure 7 ) and y(t), de−noising information (smoothening), and averaging, i.e., every 10 frames (0.1 s),
- total length of marker (BMC) trajectory ,
- total and two−axis component velocity: , , and ,
- set picture the total speed of the marker at a given point,
- maximum and minimum climbing velocity: , ,
- colour marking of the running route with different velocities,
- accelerations (total, and two-axis) obtained from video analysis: , , , tangential acceleration , and centripetal acceleration (normal) ,
- minimum and maximum values of all calculated accelerations,
- the radius of curvature ρ,
- convex hull C(s) (area) of the climbing run s(the road travelled by the marker BMC),
- entropy [17] calculated as Global Index Entropy GIE (1):
- geometric index of entropy (2):
- decrease at velocity (linear regression velocity – parameters regression a and b), i.e., as shown in figures: Figure 5,and Figure 10.Figure 5. Example of linear regression of speed (video data BMC).

- time to achieve maximum velocity and position (in Figure 3) when achieving maximum speed,
- drawn on the picture (video frame) parameters of velocity and acceleration,
- location (spatial) of the maximum value of velocities/accelerations or radius of curvature ρ,
- the potential (scaled height position/ location X Figure 6), kinetic, and total energy of running,
- analysis of a fragment of the route taken (Figure 7),
- extraction of keypoint detection human body skeleton by CNN OpenPose (Figure 8) with angles at the elbow, knee (Figure 9) or hip joints.Figure 6. Comparison position (by video) of the picture BMC component for Athlete A “fast” and Athlete B “slow” runFigure 6. Comparison position (by video) of the picture BMC component for Athlete A “fast” and Athlete B “slow” run
Figure 7. A comparison velocity of the BMC speed two climbers for first 11 foot and handholds (Figure 1).Figure 7. A comparison velocity of the BMC speed two climbers for first 11 foot and handholds (Figure 1).


9. Statistical analysis of selected parameters
10. Conclusions
Future perspectives
- Development and evaluation of concurrent validity (association performance test vs competition performance) a new set of parameters (based on those presented in this study) with bigger sample size. It seems that it should be applied to the climbing time. It will allow us to investigate relationships between internal variables (e.g., GIE, variability of climbing velocity, joint angles) with climbing time.
- Evaluation of intra- and between-day reliability. It will allow us to investigate the typical error and sensitivity of measurements. This may be crucial information for practitioners in terms of evaluation of training process.
Author Contributions
Funding
Institutional Review Board Statement
Informed Consent Statement
Data Availability Statement
Acknowledgments
Conflicts of Interest
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| Parameters | Regression | Regression | Tot. distance of run | ) | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Time | 1.00 | ||||||||||
| Time by video | 0.99 | 1.00 | |||||||||
| Max Velocity | −0.52 | −0.42 | 1.00 | ||||||||
| Time to | 0.51 | 0.60 | 0.13 | 1.00 | |||||||
| regresion velocity a | 0.62 | 0.66 | −0.04 | 0.66 | 1.00 | ||||||
| Regression velocity | −0.86 | −0.90 | 0.26 | −0.77 | −0.88 | 1.00 | |||||
| Entropy | −0.49 | −0.52 | 0.04 | −0.36 | −0.77 | 0.65 | 1.00 | ||||
| 0.43 | 0.50 | 0.31 | 0.73 | 0.73 | −0.64 | −0.74 | 1.00 | ||||
| Tot. distance of run | 0.42 | 0.50 | 0.31 | 0.73 | 0.73 | −0.64 | −0.74 | 0.99 | 1.00 | ||
| Area of volume | 0.49 | 0.53 | 0.01 | 0.47 | 0.80 | −0.68 | −0.99 | 0.83 | 0.83 | 1.00 | |
| Max acceleration max | 0.01 | 0.04 | 0.36 | 0.02 | 0.00 | 0.08 | −0.21 | 0.30 | 0.30 | 0.22 | 1.00 |
| Parameters | Regression | Regression | Tot. distance of run | ) | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Time | 1.00 | ||||||||||
| Time by video | 0.99 | 1.00 | |||||||||
| Max Velocity | −0.53 | −0.52 | 1.00 | ||||||||
| Time to | −0.18 | −0.18 | 0.88 | 1.00 | |||||||
| regresion velocity a | 0.65 | 0.67 | −0.32 | −0.16 | 1.00 | ||||||
| Regression velocity | −0.88 | −0.90 | 0.47 | 0.21 | −0.88 | 1.00 | |||||
| Entropy | −0.51 | −0.55 | 0.32 | 0.30 | −0.41 | 0.58 | 1.00 | ||||
| 0.27 | 0.24 | 0.14 | 0.18 | 0.41 | −0.17 | −0.04 | 1.00 | ||||
| Tot. distance of run | 0.29 | 0.26 | 0.17 | 0.24 | 0.40 | −0.18 | −0.05 | 1.00 | 1.00 | ||
| Area of volume | 0.58 | 0.60 | −0.26 | −0.20 | 0.57 | −0.62 | −0.91 | 0.44 | 0.44 | 1.00 | |
| Max acceleration max | −0.08 | −0.10 | 0.59 | 0.60 | 0.24 | 0.08 | 0.22 | 0.75 | 0.75 | 0.10 | 1.00 |
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