Preprint Article Version 1 Preserved in Portico This version is not peer-reviewed

LiDAR Observations of Multi-modal Swash Probability Distributions on a Dissipative Beach

Version 1 : Received: 20 December 2020 / Approved: 21 December 2020 / Online: 21 December 2020 (15:58:37 CET)

A peer-reviewed article of this Preprint also exists.

Stringari, C.E.; Power, H.E. LiDAR Observations of Multi-Modal Swash Probability Distributions on a Dissipative Beach. Remote Sens. 2021, 13, 462. Stringari, C.E.; Power, H.E. LiDAR Observations of Multi-Modal Swash Probability Distributions on a Dissipative Beach. Remote Sens. 2021, 13, 462.

Journal reference: Remote Sens. 2021, 13, 462
DOI: 10.3390/rs13030462

Abstract

Understanding swash zone dynamics is of crucial importance for coastal management as the swash motion, consisting of the uprush of the wave on the beach face and the subsequent downrush, is responsible for driving changes the beach morphology trough sediment exchanges between the sub-aerial and sub-aqueous beach. Improved understanding of the probabilistic characteristics of these motions has the potential to allow coastal engineers to develop improved sediment transport models which, in turn, can be further developed into coastal management tools. In this paper, novel descriptors of swash motions are obtained by combining field data and statistical modelling. Our results indicate that the probability distribution function (PDF) of shoreline height (p(ζ)) and trough-to-peak swash heights (p(ρ)) measured at a high energy, sandy beach were both inherently multimodal. Based on the observed multimodality of these PDFs, Gaussian Mixtures are shown to be the best method to statistically model them. Further, our results show that both offshore and surf zone dynamics are responsible for driving swash zone dynamics, which indicates unsaturated swash. The novel methods and results developed in this paper, both data collection and analysis, could aid coastal managers to develop improved swash zone models in the future.

Subject Areas

LiDAR; swash zone; nearshore waves; probability distributions; sandy beaches

Comments (0)

We encourage comments and feedback from a broad range of readers. See criteria for comments and our diversity statement.

Leave a public comment
Send a private comment to the author(s)
Views 0
Downloads 0
Comments 0
Metrics 0


×
Alerts
Notify me about updates to this article or when a peer-reviewed version is published.
We use cookies on our website to ensure you get the best experience.
Read more about our cookies here.