1. Introduction
The world of fashion and textiles has embraced 3D printing technology as it gained more popularity and accessibility, using it to create complex works of wearable art as well as everyday apparel. Garments can be created by printing individual pieces that are then assembled by hand, or can be printed in their complete form, ready to wear. For example, in 2010, designer Iris Van Herpen [
1] presented her first fully 3D printed couture dress. A few years later, Danit Peleg demonstrated how 3D printing technology can be used to produce customizable clothing on demand using flexible materials [
2]. Additive manufacturing, and in particular Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), is being used to provide fashion designers the ability to develop textiles and garments without the need for a textile factory, significantly shortening a lengthy process from ideation to fabrication, and allowing them to develop materials that cannot be produced in traditional methods. This advantage has also drawn in researchers in the field of Human Computer Interaction (HCI) to develop novel methods of producing smart textiles for interactive wearables embedded into existing textiles [
3,
4] and leveraging machine limitations to fabricate soft materials with new structures and mechanical behaviors [
5].
Although a wide range of design typologies can be produced through additive manufacturing for garment creation, fine and lightweight textile nets exhibit particularly strong similarities to traditionally manufactured textiles. 3D printed textile nets are mesh fabric-like materials produced using FDM 3D printers using flexible filaments. These flexible filaments, typically Thermoplastic Polyurethane (TPU), are deposited in continuous, overlapping paths, forming a structure resembling a net. Such structures can exhibit mechanical properties comparable to those of conventional textiles, including flexibility, drape, and light weight. However, unlike traditional textiles, 3D printed textile nets can be enhanced with additional functional characteristics and customized for specific garments through parametric control over the material’s structure afforded by computational tools for toolpath generation.
Printed textile nets are currently being fabricated by both hobbyists and brands for fully functional garments, with companies like Nike recently presenting a highly breathable sports bra for athletes designed with a variable density net to maximize performance [
6]. Brigitte Kock, designer of "Variable Seams," creates conceptual garments often made of printed textile nets that can be assembled by embedded joinery flaps without the need to sew or solder the pattern pieces. In an effort to give designers easier access to design their own garments with textile nets, companies Polymaker and Covestro have announced a collaboration to develop a designated slicer program to print textile nets with flexible materials, exemplifying the demand for a tailor-made workflow to fabricate printed fabric structures that are both attractive and functional for garments [
7].
The mechanical behavior of textiles is greatly affected by their structure; therefore, slicer programs are often not utilized for fabrication, as they enable limited control over the printer toolpath. Instead, the toolpath is computationally generated using code. This code then directly creates a G-code file, which holds the instructions for the printer. Using toolpath manipulation, structural and surface characteristics of 3D printed textiles can be systematically tuned through a variety of design and fabrication strategies; however, control over color patterning remains significantly challenging. In FDM printing, mid-print color changes are particularly susceptible to cross-contamination and filament stringing, a challenge that is further intensified when using flexible materials. Although multicolor printing can be achieved using specialized equipment—such as commercially available color-changing or split-color filaments—control over the distribution of colors within the toolpath is limited, since the continuity of the path is disturbed,
Our goal is to develop a workflow to incorporate multicolored patterns into 3D-printed textile nets while adhering to several design guidelines. The first is preserving maximal toolpath continuity to maintain structural integrity and eliminate stringing. The second is achieving a relatively thin fabric with a drape similar to traditional textiles. The third guideline is decoupling the color pattern from the fabric structure, enabling the design of functional structures regardless of the color pattern. And finally, the workflow should be suitable for desktop FDM printers using commercially available flexible TPU filament, employing only one material swap, or none if using a printer with a dual extruder system.
In order to achieve these design guidelines, we turned to halftoning, a technique of reproducing images with smooth, variable tones. This technique is commonly used to translate an image into a dot pattern with varying size or spacing, enabling reproduction with a single color. Historically, this technique has been used mainly for print media; however, it is also used for other fabrication methods, such as knitting and weaving. Textile designers often use halftoning to translate images into various structures in a jacquard design with two colored yarns, each structure exposing the yarns to the fabric surface in different proportions, thereby creating tonal variation while maintaining the fabric’s structural integrity. Halftoning allows different designs to be produced on a single machine, requiring only a change in the digital input to switch designs. In 3D printing, halftoning has also been used to overcome material color limitations, such as printing 3D objects with shading and hue variation using a “hatching” method with two colors [
8], while considering the limitations of layered printing [
9]. Some 2D graphics software for hobbyists allows the creation of a halftone vector graphic from an image, which is then transformed into a 3D mesh that can be printed with a slicer [
10]. However, these methods do not support the specific structural requirements necessary for 3D printing of textile nets.
Our workflow uses halftoning to incorporate color patterns and image reproduction into 3D printed textiles while maintaining their structural integrity. We use a standard FDM printer and off-the-shelf flexible filaments in two colors. The workflow enables dynamic control of the extrusion amount and printing speed to modulate the thickness of the printed path, thereby increasing the visual weight of one color relative to the other. We use a grayscale image as input to generate a net-shaped toolpath consisting of two overlapping layers. Then, we segment the toolpath and calculate a target thickness for each segment. Our algorithm assigns different extrusion and speed values for each segment (see
Figure 1). The grid-like structure guarantees a stable printed material with continuous lines, much like a woven fabric consisting of warp and weft. This approach allows us to control color pattern, generate color transitions and reproduce images, regardless of the material structure. To demonstrate this workflow, we present several printed swatches with a variety of color patterns, and four textile-like swatches with the same pattern but constructed using different grid formations. These swatches have different mechanical properties to show that the printed textile can be detached from the color pattern. We also demonstrate a fully printed patterned corset, to show how our approach can be integrated into a wearable garment.
This work contributes to personal fabrication of textiles and garments by developing a method for calibrating printing parameters to achieve a target path thickness and presenting an end-to-end workflow for 3D printing highly detailed, multi-colored, patterned textile nets using FDM printers. To empower designers, researchers, and makers to generate expressive, textile-like structures, we contribute an online accessible parametric design tool for generating halftoned 3D printed textile nets. This tool can be used to create a variety of applications in fashion, wearable technology, and soft goods prototyping.