Introduction
Coastal sedimentary nearshore environments inherently exhibit a dynamic nature, displaying variations in both time and space. These environments are comprised of both sub- and supra-aqueous zones, and their morphology is shaped by the existing geology, topography, sediment supply and sea level, and forced by a range of oceanographic and geologic processes [
1]. These processes occur on both short and long-term time-scales and drive geomorphic evolution, and they include sea level rise; tides and currents; storm magnitude, frequency, direction, and duration; wind, climatic cycles (e.g. Southern Annular Mode); sand type and supply; and tectonic uplift and subsidence of the coastal zone [
2].
Forecasting the evolution of nearshore sedimentary environments as they respond to variations in oceanographic and geologic processes is crucial for ensuring the resilience of coastal areas in the context of climate change. Predictive models like Delft3D and X-beach have been utilised to aid understanding of shoreline change. However, these models are limited by the costly input of up-to-date medium-resolution (1-10m) bathymetric grids and the validation of model outputs through repeat bathymetric surveys [
1]. Conventionally, echo sounders and airborne Light Detection and Ranging (LiDAR) bathymetric systems have been utilised to capture these datasets. These are high-precision technologies that are essential for obtaining precise bathymetric information (i.e. within a few centimetres) [
3,
4], capable of meeting International Hydrographic Organization Standards for Hydrographic Survey [
5]. However, these methods have inherent limitations in terms of cost and time constraints [
6] and the dynamic nature of the nearshore potentially renders the outputs dataset outdated shortly after the survey has concluded. These cost and time restraints often result in spatially sparse bathymetric observations being interpolated over large distances, with vertical uncertainty being introduced [
7]. In contrast, satellite-derived bathymetry (SDB) is cost-effective, non-intrusive, able to survey remote locations, capable of extensive coverage, spatially and temporally continuous, and repeatable at user-defined intervals [
8]. Hence, it is a more efficient mechanism for obtaining bathymetric information, albeit with large error margins (root mean square error (RMSE) ~1m) [
1,
6,
9,
10,
11]. Consequently, SDB may not be suitable for all applications, such as maritime construction or port surveys; however, it is well-suited for coastal monitoring and modelling purposes, where its utility is maximised.
SDB is inferred from both passive and active space-borne sensors, although, more commonly from passive imaging sensors [
12]. Passive methods (the focus of this research) relate water leaving radiance to depth based on the Beer-Lambart Law (Eq. 1) which proposes an exponential relationship between the attenuation of light in water and water depth [
13]. This law suggests that the remaining water leaving radiance (
Id) in a medium (pure water) is a function of incident light intensity (I
0) and reduces with increased passage (
p). It is also dependent on the specific attenuation coefficient (
k) which varies with wavelength. This is expressed by:
Along with SDB being limited by depth, SDB is also limited by other factors that prohibit electromagnetic energy from interacting with the seafloor and being reflected to space-based sensors, including excess turbidity, high sea-states, sea-surface reflectance, and atmospheric scattering [
14]. Complex mixed bottom types with spatially variant albedo further contribute to increased uncertainties.
Within optical SDB literature, there are two major approaches commonly cited; empirical and analytical (physics-based) approaches [
12,
15]. Analytical approaches are based on the radiative transfer of light within a water body and require the input of multiple
in situ measurements, including water quality parameters and seafloor albedo [
15]. Hence, the approach is limited by the requirement of simultaneous
in situ measurements distributed throughout the surveyed area at the time of image capture to account for the fluctuating and spatially variant nature of the nearshore environment [
8,
15].
Empirical approaches, rather than solving depth based on the physics of light attenuation through a defined medium, typically employ linear and non-linear regressions to estimate depth based solely on corresponding depth observations and the reflectance of single or multiple bands [
12]. Traditional empirical approaches in contrast to analytical approaches are simpler to implement and although not as accurate as analytical approaches in heterogeneous environmental conditions, do produce quality results in homogenous environments and at depths less than 20m [
15].
An evaluation of SDB dataset quality in an optically shallow, mixed bottom, low wave energy coastal environment derived from diverse space-borne multi-spectral sensors, each possessing unique spectral properties and spatial resolutions, and estimated using different empirical techniques, would greatly assist coastal practitioners both globally and locally, enabling the capture of optimised, cost-effective, spatially, and temporally extensive bathymetric grids. This would increase the capacity to monitor and model coastal sedimentary responses to sea level rise in similar environments and enable coastal practitioners to best manage beach amenity, coastal infrastructure, and coastal ecology on optically shallow, mixed bottom, low wave energy coasts. However, such studies are currently limited in number and scope, warranting further investigation.
Review papers of existing literature do provide meta-analysis of the mean correlation coefficient and RMSE values of many major derivation techniques in a range of coastal environments [
3,
12]. However, these reviews are constrained by the limited publication of spectral information used in the SDB derivations and the extensive timescale of the sourced literature, leading to a disparity in imaging quality (spatially, spectrally, and radiometrically). More recent work by Evagorou
et al. [
6] made significant headway in determining an optimised SDB derivation method for a similar environment by empirically testing the best combination of input satellite imagery, input spectral bands, and derivation techniques. However, Evagorou
et al. [
6] utilised conventional PlanetScope 4-band imagery instead of exploring the potentially superior PlanetScope SuperDove constellation, which offers enhanced spectral resolution in the visible spectrum [
16]. This highlights the need for further investigation to fully leverage these advancements.
Furthermore, the relationship between the number of input bands, their spatial resolution, and their specific spectral properties (central wavelength and bandwidth) with output SDB dataset quality remains unknown. Evagorou
et al. [
6] identified that the impact of spatial resolution of satellite imagery on SDB quality should be a subject of future work. Similarly, the influence of improved spectral sampling of the visible spectrum on dataset quality remains uncertain. While most studies traditionally use green and blue wavelengths for SDB derivations due to their lower absorption by the water column than other visible wavelengths [
17,
18,
19], recent observations suggest that providing more input spectral data to machine learning algorithms enhances accuracy, prompting a shift towards the use of hyper-spectral data for SDB derivations [
20,
21]. Questions remain as to whether this applies to SDB derivations performed with traditional derivation techniques.
This research aims to enhance the accuracy of optical SDB datasets utilising empirical techniques in an optically shallow, mixed bottom, low wave energy coastal environment. The study determines an optimal SDB derivation method based on a selection of the best-performing combination of three critical variables; the input satellite imagery, each with unique spatial resolutions and spectral properties (Sentinel-2, Pleiades Neo & PlanetScope SuperDove); the input spectral bands utilised in the SDB derivation; and the empirical derivation technique itself (multiband linear and band ratio). Furthermore, the research aims to describe how the number of input bands, their spatial resolution, and their specific spectral properties (central wavelength and bandwidth) influence dataset quality (RMSE).
The objectives are as follows:
Identification of the optimal combination of variables for generating accurate bathymetric datasets within a small sub-site.
Determination of a parsimonious model to estimate dataset quality (RMSE) based on predictor variables spatial resolution and spectral suitability of input bands. Where spectral suitability is a metric of spectral resolution given the coastal water application.
Validation of the optimised SDB dataset performance across diverse conditions within a broader study site, including different bottom types and varying depths.
Materials and Methods
Study Area—Adelaide Metropolitan Coast
The research was conducted along the Adelaide Metropolitan Coastline located within the Gulf St Vincent, extending from the water line to 3km offshore (100km
2) (
Figure 1). The sediments in the region are characterised by mixed terrigenous-carbonate sands, dominated by biogenic carbonate including bryozoans, coralline algae, molluscs and foraminifera [
22]. Sediments are transported northward by longshore drift, driven by oblique wave impact upon the coast at a rate of 100,000m
3/yr [
23,
24]. Multiple bottom types are present, including, seagrass meadow
(Posidonia and
Amphibolis), bare sand, and limestone reefs [
23].
The site was chosen for several compelling reasons. Primarily, the coastline experiences low wave breaker energy, as Kangaroo Island blocks large swells generated in the Southern Ocean [
25]. Typical significant wave height (Hs) ranging from 0.01 to 0.5m (
Figure 1). These conditions are favourable for SDB applications, as increased wave action leads to increased whitewash and suspended sediments, both of which reduce the penetration of sunlight into the water column. Secondarily, this site benefits from the availability of annual nearshore bathymetric surveys conducted by the South Australian Coast Protection Board, contributing a substantial dataset that serves as valuable ground truth for evaluating the accuracy and reliability of the optimised SDB datasets. Additionally, this coastline is both heavily developed and significantly impacted by erosion on the downdrift side of artificial structures. To maintain beaches in this contested environment sand nourishment, sand recycling and sand bypassing are being utilised [
26]. Therefore, this was a valuable opportunity to bolster bathymetric data collection capability in a vulnerable coastal environment.
While SDB technology enables surveying of extensive coastlines, to optimise workflow a smaller representative 1.2km
2 sub-site was selected 5km south of the Port Adelaide River Mouth (
Figure 1). The choice of this sub-site was based on several criteria, including, access to existing satellite imagery in the region; the representativeness of the sub-site in terms of bottom type characteristics and slope, ensuring it aligned with the broader Adelaide coast's characteristics; and the ability to capture bathymetric LiDAR data in that location.
Figure 1.
Insert A depicts the study site’s regional setting within the Australian continent. Insert B displays the study site’s regional location, centred around the Gulf St Vincent along with a wave rose depiction of local swell conditions recorded over the past two years [
27]. The broader study site’s spatial extent and bathymetric contours [
28] are depicted in insert C. Also within insert C is a red rectangle displaying the location of the sub-site.
Figure 1.
Insert A depicts the study site’s regional setting within the Australian continent. Insert B displays the study site’s regional location, centred around the Gulf St Vincent along with a wave rose depiction of local swell conditions recorded over the past two years [
27]. The broader study site’s spatial extent and bathymetric contours [
28] are depicted in insert C. Also within insert C is a red rectangle displaying the location of the sub-site.
Multi-Resolution Optical Datasets
The study utilised wavelengths within the visible spectrum associated with satellite imagery from three distinct spaceborne multi-spectral instruments: Sentinel-2 (10m), PlanetScope SuperDove (3m), and Pléiades Neo (1.2m), offering unique spatial resolutions (pixel size) and spectral resolutions (number of bands and sampled portion of electromagnetic spectrum) (
Table 1). In addition to selection based upon unique spatial and spectral resolutions, these satellites were chosen in part due to cost and the availability of archival imagery simultaneous with
in situ data collection (Section 2.3). Sentinel-2 and PlanetScope SuperDove satellite imagery were obtained freely from Copernicus Browser and Planet Explorer archives respectively; in the case of the PlanetScope SuperDove, this data is only free of charge with an education and research license. Pleiades Neo imagery was obtained from AirBus through a tasked capture, with a reduced cost for research purposes. Further sensor technical details are provided in
Appendix A.
To obtain the best quality imagery the following criteria were considered:
The prevalence of cloud cover within the imagery.
The date of image capture relative to in situ data collection (16th of January 2024 – see Section 2.3).
Visible effects of sunglint over water.
Visible effects of sea state.
Visible effects of turbidity.
Considering the above criteria, an optimal multi-spectral image from each satellite provider was chosen, the details of which are listed in
Table 2. These three multi-spectral images were collected within twelve minutes, ensuring minimal variability in environmental conditions. To facilitate fair comparison, each image was obtained at an equivalent surface reflectance level. All datasets were then reprojected to the Geocentric Datum of Australia 2020 (GDA2020) with a Universal Transverse Mercator (UTM) projection centred around zone 54 south.