Preprint Article Version 1 Preserved in Portico This version is not peer-reviewed

Natural or Synthetic Emollients? Physicochemical Properties of Body Oils in Relation to Selected Parameters of Epidermal Barrier Function

Version 1 : Received: 19 December 2023 / Approved: 21 December 2023 / Online: 21 December 2023 (09:14:16 CET)

A peer-reviewed article of this Preprint also exists.

Ogorzałek, M.; Klimaszewska, E.; Mirowski, M.; Kulawik-Pióro, A.; Tomasiuk, R. Natural or Synthetic Emollients? Physicochemical Properties of Body Oils in Relation to Selected Parameters of Epidermal Barrier Function. Applied Sciences 2024, 14, 2783, doi:10.3390/app14072783. Ogorzałek, M.; Klimaszewska, E.; Mirowski, M.; Kulawik-Pióro, A.; Tomasiuk, R. Natural or Synthetic Emollients? Physicochemical Properties of Body Oils in Relation to Selected Parameters of Epidermal Barrier Function. Applied Sciences 2024, 14, 2783, doi:10.3390/app14072783.

Abstract

Emollients are valued ingredients of many cosmetic products and medical devices used to support the treatment and prevention of many skin diseases. Despite the fact that they are one of the oldest cosmetic ingredients, raw materials as well as new recipe solutions are constantly being sought, the main goal of which is to obtain products with the most favorable physicochemical properties while improving the hydration of the stratum corneum and softening and smoothing the skin. This article presents the results of physicochemical tests of selected emollients: natural [Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil], semi-synthetic Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and synthetic (Octyldodecanol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Dibutyl Adipate). Then, recipes for cosmetic oils were developed, differing in the type and concentration of emollients used. The obtained formulations were subjected to physicochemical tests (dynamic viscosity, surface tension, wetting angle, color assessment) and selected parameters of the epidermal barrier function (skin hydration and lubrication) were assessed. By appropriately selecting the type and concentration of emollients in the cosmetic oil recipe, it is possible to obtain products with the appropriate ability to spread on the skin, form a uniform protective layer on the skin and remain on the skin for a sufficiently long time. The observed improvement in skin hydration and the level of lubrication after using formulations containing mixtures of natural and semi-synthetic/synthetic emollients confirms that both groups of these raw materials can be components of cosmetic body oil recipes with an emollient effect, and the products themselves constitute an important element of the care of skin affected by the disease process.

Keywords

emollients; vegetable oils; body oils; skin hydration; skin lubrication; physicochemical properties

Subject

Biology and Life Sciences, Life Sciences

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