Version 1
: Received: 29 April 2024 / Approved: 29 April 2024 / Online: 30 April 2024 (08:48:23 CEST)
How to cite:
Boira, C.; Chapuis, E.; Lapierre, L.; Tiguemounine, J.; Scandolera, A.; Reynaud, R. Silybum marianum Extract: A Highly Effective Natural Alternative to Retinoids to Prevent Skin Ageing without Side Effects. Preprints2024, 2024041941. https://doi.org/10.20944/preprints202404.1941.v1
Boira, C.; Chapuis, E.; Lapierre, L.; Tiguemounine, J.; Scandolera, A.; Reynaud, R. Silybum marianum Extract: A Highly Effective Natural Alternative to Retinoids to Prevent Skin Ageing without Side Effects. Preprints 2024, 2024041941. https://doi.org/10.20944/preprints202404.1941.v1
Boira, C.; Chapuis, E.; Lapierre, L.; Tiguemounine, J.; Scandolera, A.; Reynaud, R. Silybum marianum Extract: A Highly Effective Natural Alternative to Retinoids to Prevent Skin Ageing without Side Effects. Preprints2024, 2024041941. https://doi.org/10.20944/preprints202404.1941.v1
APA Style
Boira, C., Chapuis, E., Lapierre, L., Tiguemounine, J., Scandolera, A., & Reynaud, R. (2024). Silybum marianum Extract: A Highly Effective Natural Alternative to Retinoids to Prevent Skin Ageing without Side Effects. Preprints. https://doi.org/10.20944/preprints202404.1941.v1
Chicago/Turabian Style
Boira, C., Amandine Scandolera and Romain Reynaud. 2024 "Silybum marianum Extract: A Highly Effective Natural Alternative to Retinoids to Prevent Skin Ageing without Side Effects" Preprints. https://doi.org/10.20944/preprints202404.1941.v1
Abstract
Vitamin A, or retinol, is one of the most effective anti-ageing molecules, but it presents issues with photo-sensitivity and irritation. Retinol-like alternatives are emerging, but have so far been less effective. Here, we present a Silibum marianum extract (SME) as a retinol-like ingredient providing both safety and efficacy. SME was compared to the reference compound, retinol, and to the main alternative, bakuchiol. In ex vivo tests, skin explants from a 58-year-old donor were treated with pure retinol (0.1%), bakuchiol (0.2%) or SME (0.8%). After 5 days, collagen and hyaluronic acid levels were analysed. A placebo-controlled study involving 57 volunteers (ages 45-73 years) was also conducted, with products applied twice-daily for 56 days. Results were measured by AEVA-HE and VISA. Levels of collagen III were significantly increased by SME, by 23% and 16% compared to bakuchiol and retinol, respectively. Compared to bakuchiol, SME treatment increased hyaluronic acid production by 36%. In clinical tests, SME had a significantly stronger anti-wrinkle effect than bakuchiol – reducing the number of wrinkles on the forehead by 21%, and their circumference by 17% – producing effects similar to retinol, and better than bakuchiol. In the self-assessment, 43% of volunteers reported discomfort while using retinol, as compared to 0% for the SME formulation. By enhancing levels of collagen III – the youth collagen – and hyaluronic acid in the skin, SME paves the way for the maturation of collagen I fibrils and skin plumping. With its stronger efficacy compared to bakuchiol and enhanced safety profile compared to retinol, SME may be the next-generation of natural alternatives to retinoids.
Copyright:
This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution License which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.
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