It is demonstrated in this study that PhabrOmeter creates genuine wrinkle on fabrics comparable to that in AATCC specifications, and measures fabric wrinkle recovery values fast with repeatable and reliable results with high resolution, over wide range of fabric types. It thus provides an appealing alternative to the existing test methods that are known to be slow, insensitive and unreliable. In addition, with enormous varieties of fabrics, we used a new criterion termed fabric linear density λ so that fabrics can in general be divided into relatively homogeneous groups for further study. The calculation and application of this parameter are showed in this report.

With huge varieties of fabrics, the first challenge for any performance evaluation is to categorize the vast types of the products into fewer, more homogeneous and thus akin groups. Classification or sorting is arguably the first step of any scientific investigation, and comparison of product quality is meaningful only when conducted within a group of comparable products. A new criterion termed fabric linear density λ is first proposed in this paper so that fabrics can in general be divided into 4 groups. The derivation and validation of this parameter are provided. The importance of fabric drape is almost self-evident, but there is still no effective ways to measure this fabric attribute. The Cusick Drapemeter suffers from its low repeatability and low sensitivity, and is hence not widely or frequently used. The PhabrOmeter, along with the fabric linear density λ, is proposed and demonstrated in this study as a much more efficient alternative for fabric drape test. By actually testing 40 various fabrics, the principle, procedure and results of this method is presented in this paper.

Two major sample configurations are adopted in all the instruments for fabric hand measurement, flat sample as in KES and FAST types machines, and wrinkled sample as in PhabrOmeter. This paper compares the two sample types to examine which one if any offers a better coverage and reflection of the fabric sensory attributes. Fabrics have unique behaviors of drape, wrinkle and tactile sense which are entirely due to the simultaneous occurrence of both in-plane membrane deformation and out-of-plane bending deformation in multiple curvature. Such singular deformation mode cannot be detected by any machines using flat sample, whereas during a PhabrOmeter test, the fabric sample genuinely produces drape, wrinkle in addition to other related deformations. This paper then introduced the theoretical research pertaining to the measurement. Then a split sample experiment is conducted to demonstrate the importance of the internal connections in fabric during drape and wrinkle processes. As such fabric interconnection will be barely disclosed during tests using flat samples, another important advantage of PhabrOmeter is hence clearly shown.

Current instrumental technology in evaluating performance of skin care creams is still rather limited and there are no industrial standard testing equipment, method and performance specifications for it. In this paper, we report our attempt in using an instrument called PhabrOmeter for this purpose. PhabrOmeter is a commercialized instrument for sensory performance evaluation of textiles, leather, paper and nonwoven and has been designated by American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) as a standard test method for textiles, AATCC TM 202 in 2013. By adopting artificial skin samples treated with skin care creams, we have developed a procedure to apply this instrument for evaluation of skin care creams from sample preparation, measurement to data analysis and interpretation. The results using commercial skin care creams to demonstrate the feasibility and advantages of this instrument are provided.