Throughout the ages and times, the need to use everything that reflects women's beauty and helps them maintain their vision and health, and if the need to use the precious materials has been put in place, it is important that they produce the desired results without attention to the harmful chemicals and heavy metals that they contain. Over time, the toxicity of these heavy metals increases in our environment because of their long-term exposure to these pollutants, whether low or high-level in toxicity, animal-prednmost, environment, including air we breathe, water, food, etc. Cosmetics are one of these sources through which humans are exposed to heavy toxic metals. Heavy metals have been estimated in a number of previous studies, and in our study here, we aim to estimate the amount of cadmium metal and study it in various cosmetics such as Lipstick, Eye shadow, Face whitening cream. Two samples were taken from each of the locomoys and cadmium was estimated using the photometer of atomic absorption, one of the samples being expensive and the other low-cost, and purchased from the wholesale markets of Taiz City. Cadmium has been found prominently in these products and the highest rate found in the lowest cost-effective, Eye shadow, that the use of these cosmetic products exposes users to low- conc. heavy metals, which may pose a danger to their health. They are known to be clustered in their biological systems over time, resulting in an imbalance of body and environment. The results found that the low-priced color samples contained a higher concentration of cadmium than the high-price samples in low-priced samples, cadmium concentration was in order of eye shadow > lipstick = face whitening cream. The similar pattern are shown also for higher price product, which are lipstick > face whitening cream > eye shadow.

The sale and distribution of illegal cosmetics containing dangerous ingredients such as bleaching creams with steroids violate several regulations on the production and distribution of cosmetics, applicable legal regulations such as obligations of business actors, and consumers' rights to security and safety. The factors behind the occurrence of violations are the lack of legal awareness and insight from the public as business actors and consumers. Efforts that can be used as a solution are socialization to increase legal awareness and insight of the Indonesian people regarding illegal cosmetics.

Kamchatka berries (Lonicera caerulea L.) are known for their high content of phenolic compounds or vitamins, which is reflected in their antibacterial, detoxifying and anti-inflammatory properties. They are used in the production of jams, juices, wines and as natural dye. A bioferment was prepared from the pomace of the Kamchatka berry varieties Aurora and Indigo Gem and the strains Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Lacticaseibacillus paracasei, which was used to prepare a cosmetic preparation with a concentration of 5% in accordance with the guidelines of the COSMOS certification body. Conducted physico-chemical and organoleptic analyses and bioactive profile characterisation (UHPLC-DAD and UHPLC-ESI-MS/MS). The results showed that the presence of caffeic acid 4.47 ± 0.07 mg/100g was detected after fermentation of Kamchatka berry pomace. Vitamin C content increased by 141% after fermentation of Kamchatka berry pomace. The results of stability tests showed that in the process of physicochemical analysis of cosmetic preparation with bioferment of Kamchatka berry pomace the pH should oscillate in the range of 4.38-4.76 ± 0.01. Stability tests showed that the cosmetic should be protected from high temperatures and UV radiation and proved that the product is stable under changing conditions, resulting in lower transport and storage costs.

A biocatalytic system that could produce bioactive resveratrol poly-glucosides using sucrose as a low-cost source of UDP-glucose donors and amylosucrase DgAS from Deinococcus geothermalis was developed in this study. This system boasts several advantages, including fast and direct conversion of substrates to products, thermostable, and regio-stereospecific, and effectiveness in vitro and in vivo at 40°C. With a success rate of around 97.0% in a short period in vitro and 95.0% in vivo, resveratrol-O-glucosides showed exciting outcomes in cosmetic activities, such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and whitening effects when tested with Raw 264.7, B16, and HS68 cell lines. DgAS is recognized as an important biocatalyst due to its higher thermostability, effectiveness, and specificity among all known amylosucrases (ASases) in the production of poly-glucosides in a chain of polyphenols, like resveratrol, making it an ideal candidate for industrial use to cost-effective production of cosmetic items.

Most buying decisions are affected by the customer's analysis of the advantages and disadvantages of the product and its emotional aspects. Psychological and marketing studies have confirmed the role of customer emotions in various stages of the purchasing process. The present study aims to identify the dimensions and factors that potentially influence customer emotions in buying luxury cosmetics. First, in order to identify the various aspects of customer emotions, a qualitative study was conducted using in-depth semi-structured interviews with 23 customers of luxury cosmetics and health products in Telegram groups. This study led to the identification of various dimensions of customer emotions and a list of factors that potentially act as antecedents of emotions in the target population. In the next step, based on group consensus, the antecedents affecting customer emotions were determined. The members of the panel at this stage included 15 specialists and experts in the fields of marketing, psychology, companies importing luxury cosmetics and hygiene products which are active in online networks, as well as managers of luxury cosmetics and hygiene groups in online spaces. The consensus of experts was reached in three stages and 36 factors affecting customers' emotions were determined and ranked based on the relevance or strength of the perceived effect from the point of view of experts. Finally, they were classified into three categories as group and product variables, situational variables, and individual variables.

Background: Skincare products are used daily to maintain a healthy skin (cleansing, moisturizing, protecting…), but their impact on this first layer, which corresponds to the skin microbiome, is still poorly understood. Preserving natural resources and mechanisms of the skin ecosystem is essential; an original approach based on these premises, called ecobiology, has recently emerged in skincare. Ecobiology considers the skin as an ever-evolving ecosystem which hosts human and microbial cells that interact together with their environment. In this context, we evaluated the impact on the skin microbiome of three types of leave-on face skincare products: a hydrophilic sterile solution, a micellar solution, and an oil-in-water emulsion. Materials and Methods: The individual microbial profiles of 20 Caucasian females were investigated. Samples were obtained twenty-four hours and four days following a daily application of the skincare products versus control area where no product was applied. To analyze the bacterial diversity and abundance of skin microbiome, a 16SrRNA gene sequencing was performed using the Illumina MiSeq platform. Results: Our results confirm the overall diversity of skin microbiome as previously observed and notably reveal the prevalence of Cutibacterium spp. and Staphylococcus spp. on sebaceous site (the back). Bacterial diversity and abundance were not affected by the products either twenty-four hours or four days after application, as indicated by comparison with the control. Moreover, no dissimilarity was observed between the three products versus their control, neither between each product. Conclusions: These preliminary results demonstrated for the first time that three different types of leave-on face skincare products such as a hydrophilic sterile solution, a micellar solution, and an emulsion have no impact on skin microbiome and can be considered as “microbiome friendly”.

A specific HPLC method has been developed and validated for the determination of vanillyl butyl ether in cosmetic products. The extraction procedure with an isopropanol water 1:1 mixture is described. The method uses a RP-C-18 column with isocratic elution and a UV detector. The mobile phase consists of a mixture of acetonitrile and buffer (Na2HPO4 20mM in water) (30:70 v/v) with a variable flow rate. The method was validated with respect to accuracy, precision (repeatability and reproducibility), specificity and linearity. The procedure described here is simple, selective and reliable for routine quality control analysis and stability tests of commercially available cosmetic products.

The practice of voluntary depigmentation is still prevalent in Africa, with a wide range of lightening cosmetics used. Our objective was to research and quantify three regulated and/or prohibited depigmenting ingredients present in lightening cosmetics sold in Ouagadougou. Twenty-nine lightening cosmetic samples were collected from vendors and HPLC analysis was subsequently conducted to identify and measure the concentrations of hydroquinone, clobetasol propionate, and kojic acid. The presence of hydroquinone was indicated on the label of 13.79% of the products, while 51.72% contained it after analysis. Furthermore, none of the products mentioned a concentration of hydroquinone exceeding 2.00%, even though 27.58% of them contained high concentrations. For clobetasol propionate, its presence was stated on the labels of 13.79% of the products, while 31.03% contained it. One sample had a clobetasol content exceeding 0.05%, although none mentioned a concentration higher than this value. Finally, while 24.13% of the samples claimed to contain kojic acid, only 17.24% did. We also observed that 41.38% of the samples contained combinations of two depigmenting ingredients investigated, with a predominance of the hydroquinone + clobetasol propionate (27.38%). These results demonstrate that manufacturers' declarations regarding the compositions of active ingredients in lightening cosmetics can sometimes be deceptive.

Most hair relaxers or straighteners used for Afro-textured hair have a pH above 11. This pH, according to international occupational health and safety guidelines, is corrosive to the skin. Further, relaxers are associated with a 3-6 times increased risk of alopecia. The skin also gets into contact with these hair straightening products during application resulting in skin irritation. Using animals as test subjects to determine these products' potential risk and safety margin is standard practice; however, with the European Union (EU) ban on animal testing, the testing method needs to be replaced by newer in vitro laboratory technologies. This study used previously and newly established in vitro cell-based technologies and human-skin derived cells as laboratory models to evaluate relaxer-induced cytotoxicity. These technologies include endpoint (MTT, CCK-8 and flow cytometry) and real-time assays (real-time cell analysis (RTCA) and extracellular flux analysis). Cellular toxicity was evident following treatment of keratinocytes and fibroblasts with acceptable concentrations of thioglycolic acid (TGA, HSCH2COOH), ammonium bisulphite (NH4HSO3), lithium hydroxide (LiOH) and sodium hydroxide (NaOH) based relaxers. Real-time assays showed significant reductions (P<0.001) in cell index and ATP production following treatment of keratinocytes with as little as one-tenth of the acceptable concentrations. Increased apoptosis (47.9%, 58.0%, 76.7% and 80.3%) also occurred in cells after treatment with TGA, NH4HSO3, NaOH and LiOH, respectively. In conclusion, this study demonstrated that using skin cells in conjunction with advanced cell-based technologies could serve as alternatives to laboratory animals for accessing the toxicity margin of hair relaxers, straighteners and other cosmetics.

Yarrowia lipolytica is a widely used microorganism in biotechnology since it is capable of producing a wide range of products. A less studied related strain is Y. divulgata, which is also capable of erythritol production in even higher concenctration then most Y. lipolytica wild strains. Thus the aim of this work was to investigate Y. divulgata’s complex utilisation based on erythritol fermentation to establish a Yarrowia based biorefinery in which both the fermentation broth and separated cells are utilised in high-value products. An important parameter of erythritol fermentation is the adequate oxygen level, so the effect of it was investigated in baffled flasks and fermentor as well. Furthermore, we measured the cosmetic applicability of cell lysates and the efficiency of biodetergent produced during erythritol fermentation. The results were showed that Yarrowia divulagata NCAIM 1485 strain could produce relative high amount of erythritol (44.14±1 g/l) under adequate oxygen supply while its cell lysate could exert good skin moisturizing effect. In all cases, the collected samples had emulsification index above 50% of which stability was also high, above 50% even after 24 hours.Therefore, it can be considered as an effective bioemulsifier. In conclusion, the erythritol fermentation of Y. divulgata is suitable for complex utilisation in a biorefinery, since the fermentation broth can be used for isolation of sweetener and bioemulsifier, meanwhile the cells can be processed for cosmetic application as skin moisturizer.

Encapsulated nanofibers have emerged as a promising approach for the treatment of acne, owing to their ability to provide controlled release, targeted delivery, increased efficacy, and improved stability. Electrospinning is a well-established method for producing encapsulated nanofibers and has been shown to be effective for encapsulating various active ingredients. However, there are still several challenges that need to be addressed in the development of encapsulated nanofibers for acne treatment. One major challenge is the need for comprehensive in vitro and in vivo studies to evaluate the safety and efficacy of these treatments. The cost and scalability of production also need to be considered to make these treatments accessible and affordable for patients. In addition, the long-term stability of encapsulated active ingredients is another challenge in the development of encapsulated nanofibers for acne treatment. Regulatory frameworks need to be developed to ensure the safety and efficacy of these treatments. Future research may focus on developing multifunctional nanofibers that combine active ingredients with other properties, such as antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and wound-healing properties, to provide a comprehensive approach to acne treatment. Moreover, the development of nanofiber-based skincare products may have a significant impact on the cosmetic industry. Overall, while there are still challenges to overcome, the potential benefits of encapsulated nanofibers for acne treatment make them an exciting and promising area of research for the future. In particular, the integration of smart drug delivery systems and responsive materials may enable the development of more personalized and effective treatments for acne. The development of new materials and encapsulation techniques, as well as the exploration of combination therapies that target multiple aspects of acne pathogenesis, are also future perspectives for encapsulated nanofibers in acne treatment.

Skin photoaging is caused by prolonged exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from sunlight. UV-exposed skin appears rough, thick, dry, loose, and shows deep wrinkles, and thickening. Our previous research showed that a Phaseolus angularis seed extract (PASE) effectively inhibits photoaging through UVB protection in HaCaT cells. However, its efficacy has not been evaluated in clinical trials so far. In this single-centered, randomized, double-blind study, we investigated the anti-aging effect of PASE in eye wrinkle areas. To these 21 healthy adult women aged 30 to 65, a PASE cream was applied to the right eye wrinkle area and a placebo to the left eye wrinkle area twice a day (morning and evening) for 12 weeks. The change in thick, deep crease wrinkles around the eyes was confirmed by visual evaluation, skin measurements, and a questionnaire. As a result, the R1 (surface roughness), R2 (maximum roughness), R3 (average roughness), R4 (smoothness depth), and R5 (arithmetic mean roughness) values in the group using the PASE cream all decreased. Particularly, R1, R4, and R5 significantly decreased by 18.1%, 18.6%, and 25.0%. In addition, no participants reported side effects. Our study showed that PASE led to clinically significant levels of wrinkle improvement. In conclusion, as PASE is a natural food, safe, and with few side effects, it can be a good resource for natural anti-wrinkle cosmetics in the future.

Esters are versatile compounds with a wide range of applications in various industries due to their unique properties and pleasant aromas. Conventionally, the manufacture of these compounds has relied on the chemical route. Nevertheless, this technique employs high temperatures and inorganic catalysts, resulting in undesired additional steps to purify the final product by removing solvent residues, which decreases environmental sustainability and energy efficiency. In accordance with the principles of “Green Chemistry” and the search for more environmentally friendly methods, a new alternative, the enzymatic route, has been introduced. This technique uses low temperatures and does not require the use of solvents, resulting in more environmentally friendly final products. In spite of the large number of studies published on the biocatalytic synthesis of esters, little attention has been paid to the reactors used for it. Therefore, it is convenient to gather the scattered information regarding the type of reactor employed in these synthesis reactions, considering the industrial field in which the process is carried out. The comparison between the performance of the different reactor configurations will allow us to draw the appropriate conclusions regarding their suitability for each specific industrial application.

(1) Background: This manuscript introduces the "Lines and Dots" (LAD) technique, a novel method for administering Botulinum Toxin Type A (BoNT-A) in treating horizontal forehead lines. This technique emphasizes precision in targeting nerve endplates, considering individual anatomical variations, and optimizing treatment efficacy. (2) Methods: The LAD technique focus on using the frontalis muscle contraction dynamics to identify the specific distribution of the supraorbital and supratrochlear nerves It involves creating a grid of predetermined lines and points on the forehead that align with nerve paths and motor endplate zones. (3) Results: By targeting injections along these precise lines and points, the LAD technique ensures more effective utilization of BoNT-A. This approach not only enhances the toxin's effect but also allows for a reduction in the overall dosage. The strategic placement of injections results in a more natural, symmetrical, and sustained therapeutic effect, ensuring an improved aesthetic outcome. (4) Conclusions: The LAD technique represents a significant advancement in the realm of cosmetic injectables. It offers a tailored, patient-specific approach, maximizing the effectiveness of BoNT-A injections for treating forehead lines while minimizing risks and enhancing patient satisfaction. This method underscores the importance of a deep anatomical understanding and precision in cosmetic procedures.

Huge amounts of chitin and chitosans can be found in the biosphere as important constituent of the exoskeleton of many organisms, as well as waste by worldwide seafood companies. Nowadays, politicians, environmentalists, and industrialists encouraged the use of these marine polysaccharides as renewable source, particularly when developed by alternative eco-friendly processes, especially in the production of regular cosmetics. The aim of this review is to outline the physicochemical and biological properties and the different bioextraction methods of chitin and chitosans sources, focusing on enzymatic deproteinization, bacteria fermentation, and enzymatic deacetylation methods. Thanks to their biodegradability, non-toxicity, biocompatibility, and bioactivity, the application of these marine polymers is widely used in the contemporary manufacturing of biomedical and pharmaceutical products. In the end, advanced cosmetic products based on chitin and chitosans are presented, analyzing different therapeutic aspects about skin, hair, nail, and oral care. The innovative formulations described can be considered as excellent solutions regarding problems in the various body anatomical sectors.

Here we have chosen to highlight the main natural molecules extracted from camellia sinensis, andrographis paniculata and curcuma longa that may possess antioxidant activities of interest for skin protection. The molecules involved, in the antioxidant process are respectively catechins derivatives, in particular EGCG, andrographolide and its derivatives as well as various curcuminoids. These plants are generally used as beverages for camellia sinensis (tea tree), as dietary supplements or as spices. The molecules they contain are known for their diverse therapeutic activities, including anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anti-cancer, antidiabetic and dermatological treatment. Their common antioxidant activities and therapeutic applications are widely documented, but their use in cosmetic is more recent. In this review, we will endeavor to compile the cosmetic uses of these natural molecules of interest, the various structural modulations reported, with the aim of improving their bioavailability as well as establishing their different mechanisms of action.

The main focus of this work is to extend the knowledge about the complexity of issues of oxidative stress. Natural compounds play a serious role in multiple aspects of both human, leading to clear health-promoting effects. This work is focused on the potential application cosmetic formulations containing including but not limited to of clove water and isolated clove oils on their aid in the control of the diseases. The aim of our work was to prepare to evaluate cosmetic formulations containing clove oil, eugenol or new eugenol ester derivative (eugenyl dichloroacetate - EDChA) but also cosmetic formulations containing the aqueous phase obtained after separation of essential oil following the clove buds steam distillation. To evaluate the antioxidants transdermal delivery system, in vitro permeation experiments in a Franz diffusion cell were performed using pig skin. The antioxidative capacity of the cosmetic formulations obtained was determined by the DPPH free radical reduction method. In the next stage, the antioxidant activity (DPPH, ABTS, and Folin–Ciocalteu methods) of the fluid that penetrated through pig skin and of the fluid obtained after skin extraction, were also evaluated. For comparison, studies of cosmetic formulation containing alone dichloroacetic acid (DChAA) were as well carried out. The obtained cosmetic formulations were characterized by of antioxidant activity estimated after 24 hours of conducting the experiment, which indicates long-term protection against reactive oxygen species (ROS) in the deeper layers of the skin. The results of this work contribute to the development of cosmetic formulations with antioxidant potential, emphasizing that the water phases are waste from the process of cloves steam distillation and are not used to prepare cosmetic formulations. The use of waste water from the clove buds steam distillation process is environmentally friendly and not allows us to waste, containing however valuable biologically active compounds (furfural, methyl salicylate, 4-allilofenol, eugenol, α- and β-caryophyllene, eugenyl acetate, β-caryophyllene oxide). Together, these results suggest that cosmetic formulations may be potential drug candidates for chemopreventive, antineoplastic and antimutagenic therapy.

Since its first isolation in 1934, hyaluronic acid (HA) has been studied across a variety of research areas. This unbranched glycosaminoglycan consisting of repeating disaccharide units of N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucuronic acid is almost ubiquitary in humans and in other vertebrates. HA is involved in many key processes -including cell signaling, wound reparation, tissue regeneration, morphogenesis, matrix organization and pathobiology-, and has unique physico-chemical properties -such as biocompatibility, biodegradability, mucoadhesivity, hygroscopicity and viscoelasticity. For these reasons, exogenous HA has been investigated as drug delivery system and treatment in cancer, ophthalmology, arthrology, pneumology, rhinology, urology, aesthetic medicine and cosmetic. To improve and customize its properties and applications, HA can be subjected to chemical modifications: conjugation and crosslinking. The present review gives an overview regarding HA, describing its history, physico-chemical, structural and hydrodynamic properties, and biology –occurrence, biosynthesis (by hyaluronan synthases), degradation (by hyaluronidases and oxidative stress), roles, mechanisms of action and receptors. Furthermore, both conventional and recently emerging methods developed for the industrial production of HA and its chemical derivatization are presented. Finally, the medical, pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications of HA and its derivatives are reviewed, reporting examples of HA-based products which currently are on the market or are undergoing further investigations.

The aim of this paper is to present a comprehensive overview of the main aims and scopes in screening of botanicals, a task which thin-layer chromatography (TLC) is on an everyday basis confronted with and engaged in. Stunning omnipresence of this modest analytical technique (both in its standard format (TLC) and the high-performance one (HPTLC), either hyphenated or not) for many analysts might at a first glance appear chaotic and random, with an auxiliary rather than leading role in research, and not capable of issuing meaningful final statements. Based on these reflections, our purpose is not to present a general review paper on TLC in screening of botanicals, but a blueprint rather (illustrated with a selection of practical examples), which highlights a sovereign and important role of TLC in accomplishing the following analytical tasks: (i) solving puzzles related to chemotaxonomy of plants, (ii) screening a wide spectrum of biological properties of plants, (iii) providing quality control of herbal medicines and alimentary and cosmetic products of biological origin, and (iv) tracing psychoactive plants under forensic surveillance.