Kojic acid (KA) has emerged as a prominent tyrosinase inhibitor with considerable potential in cosmetic applications; however, its susceptibility to instability during storage poses a challenge to its widespread use. This review explores the advancements in addressing this limitation through the development of various KA derivatives, focusing on the modification of the C-7 hydroxyl group. Strategies such as esterification, hydroxy-phenyl ether formation, glycosylation, and incorporation into amino acid or tripeptide derivatives have been employed to enhance stability and efficacy. Among these derivatives, Kojic Acid Dipalmitate (KDP), a palmitic ester derivative of KA, stands out for its notable improvements in stability, permeability, and low toxicity. Recent developments indicate a growing utilization of KDP in cosmetic formulations, with over 132 available products on the market, encompassing various formulations. Additionally, three patents and seven advanced system deliveries of KDP further underscore its significance. Despite its increasing prevalence, the literature on KDP remains limited. This comprehensive review aims to bridge this gap by providing insights into the synthesis process, physicochemical properties, pharmaceutical preparation, diverse applications of KDP in cosmetic products, and recent nanotechnology formulations of KDP. This review paper seeks to explore the recent developments in the use of KDP in cosmetics. The goal is to enhance stability, permeability, and reduce the toxicity of KA, with the intention of promoting future research in this promising sector.

This paper aims to establish a current relationship between pharmaceutical sciences and the development of perfumes and fragrances, which bring significant economic benefits and whose added value is among other professionals, the one made by professionals in Pharmacy. For this purpose, historical data are used as a starting point and galenic, chemical and botanical aspects are discussed in a transversal way. In this sense, it must be taken into account that in the case of Spanish pharmacy, it is closely linked to the knowledge and use of plants. Sources such as Web of Science (WOS) and databases such as Scopus, monographs and various web pages (where scientific-technical documents appear) have been used. The results and discussion are based on the selection of the 50 plant species most commonly used in high quality fragrances. Therefore, this publication should be considered as an approach to this subject based on an analysis of a representative sample of data. Some characteristics of perfumes (classification according to the concentration of essential oils and combination of plant extracts) are presented beforehand. They also briefly compile the traditional and modern ways in the treatment of these extracts. The main focus of this work is the botanical and chemical analysis of these described plants, pointing out their common name, correct botanical name, geographical place of origin, used part of the plant and main molecules. The 50 botanical species belong to 27 families of angiosperms and are represented in a large part of the phylogenetic tree of botanical systematics. The most significant families are aromatic: Rutaceae (16.7%), Lamiaceae (16.7%) and Apiaceae (6.5%). The most represented genus is Citrus (with seven species or hybrids). However, it should be noted that natural extracts of good quality natural fragrances may be supplemented with chemically synthesized molecules. Of the 50 botanical species selected, 84% of the extracts have their origin in Tropical Asia, the Middle East and the Mediterranean region. This figure generally coincides with the percentage of medicinal plants (or their extracts) admitted by the European Pharmacopoeia. All parts of a plant (depending on which one it is) can be a source of molecules for the elaboration of these products. The most commonly used parts to obtain extracts are flowers (34%) and leaves (30%), a biological circumstance that is explained in this work. On the opposite side are the resins (10%), rhizomes and roots (8%). In this work, 110 molecules have been found that are part of the essences of perfumes and fragrances, the most frequent are: linalool, limonene, 1,8-cineole, eugenol and derivatives, geraniol, vanillin and derivatives, β-cariophyllene, p-cmene and farnesene and derivatives (3.64%). However, in order to elaborate a quality perfume, many other molecules must be taken into account, according to the creative experience of the perfumer, which is subject to confidentiality and chemical analysis according to current legislation, which would avoid fraud, allergy and dermatitis problems.

Marine algae have been considered as abundant source of bioactive compounds with cosmeceutical potential. Recently, a great deal of interest has focused on the health-promoting effects of marine bioactive compounds. Carbohydrate is a major and abundant constitute of marine algae that have been utilized in cosmetic formulations, such as moisturizing and thickening agents. In addition, marine carbohydrates have been suggested as promising bioactive biomaterials for various skin beneficial properties, such as anti-oxidant, anti-melanogenic and anti-skin aging. Therefore, marine algae carbohydrates have potential of skin health benefits for value-added cosmeceutical application. The present review focused on the various biological capacities and potential skin health benefits of bioactive marine carbohydrates.